Wednesday, March 22, 2023

Rice County & Faribault

When Farmer Bill & I announced we were buying a farm outside Faribault, my mother thought that was so neat; the family circling back to Rice County. Both her parents had grown up in the countryside around Faribault, in rural Rice County. My grandfather's family, of Bohemian and Irish ancestry, had lived in the Veseli area and later moved to Richland Township. There are distant cousins from his side of the family still living in the area. My grandmother, whose family was French and had come to Minnesota via Canada, grew up on a farm in Warsaw Township. There are probably some cousins in the area from that side of the family, too, but none with my grandmother's surname. Our little farm is in Walcott Township, which is between Warsaw and Richland. 

Grandma was born in 1899. She had 9 siblings, 3 brothers and 7 sisters. She was the middle sister, with 3 older and 3 younger. I grew up hearing grandma's stories about life on the farm. She talked about milking cows twice a day, and how she hated cleaning the separator; about raising a big garden and keeping chickens for both meat and eggs, and canning everything in sight. How her parents kept the farm a showpiece, with flowers, fruit trees, and a large vegetable garden. [By the time I was born, the farm had long been sold and nothing remains of the house, buildings, or orchard.] Her father worked off the farm - at least sometimes. He apparently knew blacksmithing; his uncle had a blacksmith shop where he worked (although to hear Grandma tell it, it could have been her father's shop). She liked to suggest that it was possible her father had shoed horses for the James Gang as they came through Rice County... An uncle who was a barber in St. Paul was reported to have shaved Dillinger and/or other gangsters of the prohibition era. 

Grandma talked about boarding in town during the week while she was in high school. She said they lived far enough outside Faribault that getting in and back each day wasn't feasible. So Grandma boarded in town during the week and spent weekends at home on the farm. She talked about bringing things from the farm for the boarding house: a chicken, eggs, other produce or canned goods, and how much the town folks appreciated the good country food. 

Grandma's family attended mass at Sacred Heart Catholic Church, the French Church in Faribault. There were 3 Catholic churches in Faribault at that time: Sacred Heart was the French church; Immaculate Conception the Irish church, and St. Lawrence was the German church. As time went on and people married into families that attended different churches, those designations became less obvious, but Grandma and her family remained strong supporters of Sacred Heart. In the early 2000s, the three churches were combined into one, Divine Mercy, which bought land and built a new church on the very southern edge of Faribault. [The Sacred Heart building was later purchased by an evangelical Protestant church.]

Beginning about the time we moved to the area in 2003, a wave of Somali immigrants came to Faribault. A previous wave of Latino immigrants, primarily from Mexico, had come before we did and were well established. As new immigrants do, the Latinos and then the Somalis took jobs in the canning factories and turkey processing plants. And as time went by, they moved into other work around the community, including setting up their own businesses, earning college degrees, becoming teachers, accountants, nurses, truck drivers, construction workers, etc. African-American and Hispanic groups make up 27% of the population according to the 2020 census (13.7% and 13.3%, respectively), with Caucasians still making up 73%. The historic downtown has numerous buildings with stores on the ground level and apartment homes above & many Somali families currently live there. Somalis tend to be social and gregarious. The women do a lot of their socializing indoors, or at playgrounds while watching the children. The men spend a lot of time on the benches downtown, talking and visiting with each other (and intimidating white folks with their very presence). Both groups operate businesses in town: a halal market, a bakery, restaurants, QuinceaƱera dress store, a clothing/fabric shop featuring the bright colors & prints the Somali women wear, a gift shop, etc..

Long-established businesses still remain downtown, including sewing & vacuum shops, an independent shoe store, dry cleaners, antique stores, and more. The last drugstore downtown closed a decade ago, as did a traditional bakery. A traditional diner-style restaurant (with very average food but a counter with stools for the old guys to hang out & drink coffee) closed in the early 2000s and a Tex-Mex chain restaurant is in the space now. A group got together and reclaimed an old movie theater, turning it into an arts center, where they put on plays and host acts from music to comedians, as well as having gallery shows for local artists and art classes for adults and children. A small bakery/sandwich store operates 4 days a week (and is excellent). There is a community center with a senior center, pool, exercise equipment and classes attached to a large building that houses the public library and meeting spaces (although I could live without the 10 commandments carved in stone on the front lawn). It's a fun and fairly vibrant little downtown but not tourist-attractive in the manner of downtown Northfield.

My grandmother would be appalled at some of the changes in Faribault. But then, my grandmother was a bigot. The city is a mix of cultures that she couldn't have imagined, and there are struggles to get along and work together that occur in many places across this state and our country. When the wind is in a certain direction, and at certain times of the year, the smells from the canning factory and turkey processing plant can be strong, and unpleasant. Although two rivers converge just outside downtown - the Straight River flowing north meets the Cannon River flowing northeast, there is not much use made of the riverfronts downtown. The housing ranges stock ranges from classic painted ladies and Victorians (some in stone) to tired-looking 1890s-1930s to 1960s-1980s split levels and ranch-style to 2000s-era moderns, with several manufactured home parks scattered throughout. You can find almost everything you need for farm & home in the city, but not a wide range of items. The 'mall' is next to and overshadowed by Walmart and houses an ever-changing assortment of stores & restaurants, with plenty of empty spots.

Grandma, as I mentioned, had 9 brothers & sisters. Only 3 married and had children. But all of the girls graduated high school. Two became nurses, one a legal secretary, another worked in her husband's greenhouse business. Grandma herself went to art school - she was in the first class of the Minneapolis College of Art & Design & we have a collection of her work from that time period. Then she met Grandpa at a dance, got 'in the family way' and married. Her oldest sister was a nurse, who came back from the Twin Cities to care for her mother and never married. Her oldest brother wanted no part of farming and moved to the Twin Cities as a young man & never looked back. Another brother was drafted during World War I and was invalided out. He returned home to recuperate and went to the mailbox one day to find a letter telling his family he'd been killed in action! The Des Marais line in Faribault petered out decades ago, but there are still Payants (Great-Grandma Des Marais' maiden name) in the area.

Grandpa had 12 siblings: 5 brothers & 7 sisters. My mother remembers visiting them only once or twice, and not ever really knowing the numerous cousins - 37 by one account - on that side of the family. The most she understood was that there may have been disagreements over inheritance, and that Grandpa Neil didn't talk to his siblings. But several of the family names are still known in Faribault: Delesha, Dusbabek, and Thom among them. Grandpa's family was Bohemian (originally his name was Dolezal, changed at some point to Delesha) and Irish (his mother's surname was Gilmore).

Farmer Bill & I have now lived longer in Rice County than either of us lived in any other place. While we are trying to step back from the berry & apple farming, we would like to continue to live in our little country house just outside the Faribault city limits. How that pans out remains to be seen.